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Abseiling is good to know WTSHTF
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Excuse me to interrupt... but... WTF?
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Guess this is what the mods think is a "safe place for their kids". |
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Googler, this is your warning. This is a gold/silver site, no porn. Participate appropriately or I will be happy to show you the exit.
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Welcome back, dude! Hope e-Siberia wasn't too cold!
:D Plenty of people talking about you, and claiming you have dozens of identities here. |
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KG is back with a very useful thread.?
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I like KG. :D
Don't know why....the rest of the anti-zionist crowd annoys the hell out of me. |
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Abseiling? Oh, no! KG's gone Eurotrash on his vacation! :D
I agree that it's a good skill to know, but so as not to get in trouble, one should really know how to do it and understand the equipment. Important stuff to know: 1. Know the difference between types and sizes of ropes. Your rigging, your equipment, and in many cases your survival will depend upon rigging and using the rope appropriately. For example, I could go to the local outdoor outfitter and buy dynamic climbing rope, 11 mm static rope, or 9 mm static rope. If you don't know the difference and just pick the one with the pretty colors, you could get in a lot of trouble. For example, doing what the guy in the above photo is doing isn't great for a dynamic climbing rope, but it's okay. Do that on an 11-mm static rope, and you'll need to retire the rope. Do it on a 9-mm static rope, and you might take a painful plummet when that rope rubs against the rock. It's also worth pointing out that "jumping" while on rope can be dangerous if your rappel device is attached to your harness with a carabiner rather than a maillon. If the 'biner shifts and your weight comes down on the gate, the gate could fail. 2. Know what you want to use the skill for. Short rappels (ahem...abseils)? Long ones? Traverses? Will you be needing to come back up the rope? The length of the rappel will can make a difference in what type of rappel device you use. Figure 8s are fine for short rappels. Double 'biners work fine on really short rappels (about 30 feet or less). Racks and bobbins are best for long rappels (over 100 feet), give you more control, and give you the ability to pass intermediate anchors or rope pads(when there is no choice but to attach the pad to the rope). Racks work best on larger diameter ropes. Bobbins work best on European-style/diameter ropes (but those ropes require far more padding). 3. Always have proper safety gear: a hardhat and a way to get your weight off your rappel device should you become stuck (say, you just got your beard, hair, clothing sucked into your rappel device or, as has happened to me on a couple of occasions, you notice that there is a very angry rattlesnake coiled at the bottom of the rope--having the ability to reverse direction can be a very good thing!). The Gibbs above is a good device, as it can be used as a safety (leg wraps are highly overrated in the stopping fast department!). A handled ascender with a foot loop is also good. 4. If you'll be climbing back up the rope, more specialized equipment, practice, and training are required. You'll also need a sit harness with a lower point of attachment than rock climbing harnesses have. Even if one is only planning to do short little rappels of maybe 60 feet or less, it's still imperative to know how to get out of trouble or how to get someone else out of trouble, and it could be useful to know how to negotiate more complicated vertical terrain. |
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maddie that photo of me in a run down was done on 11mm static it is the best rope for the job we were not doing any solid lock braking having trained a lot before.
the biggest problem was rope abrasion which we had carpet attached to any abrasion points with regular full rope inspections. and it could be very hard on harnesses i had to retire one after that day because i let the rope rub across it |
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Eleven mil rope is what I use, too. It's pretty tough stuff, and even if something happens and it gets abraided through the sheath (we had a rock fall on one of ours when it was loaded once...should have seen the way the core fuzzed up!), it will still hold enough not to kill you! I still worry about stress-loading it, though.
Funny story about a friend of mine: Her garage got burglarized, and all her caving rope was stolen. She had a devil of a time convincing the insurance company that she owned $6000 worth of rope (which she did, as she did a lot of expeditions to the big caves in Central America)! Lol! They did eventually pay up, but they weren't at all happy about it. |
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I still have more money in gear than i do in my car. if you can generate enough
force to break an 11 mm rope under normal circumstances (no major abrasion sharp rock or rock fall) then hitting the ground is no longer a major concern for you the forces your body has already developed have probably killed you even at half or 1/3 the breaking strain you would already be in a lot of trouble. |
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Seriously...thanks for all this technical advice folks. Maddie raises some excellent points about real world safety and expectations. It obviously is a lot more complicated and dangerous [and expensive] then what we see on teevee. Is there a basic level that can be of help for your average GIMer caught facing vertical challenges wtshtf? :yippee: or just buy the Lederhosen and fake it? |
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Attachment 36986 Loma Prieta earthquake damage in San Francisco. GIMers can be exposed to vertical challenges. Maybe someone can offer practical suggestions on basic equipment for the average GIMer. |
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KG, for basic level, rappelling down a short drop: a dynamic climbing rope, any sort of rappel device (a figure-9 is probably the cheapest), a hardhat, a sit harness (make sure you back-thread your webbing through the buckles, so it doesn't undo itself), a locking carabiner or maillon for your sit harness, and a safety device or someone competent on belay, and a good book or competent instructor can get you started. Most areas have rock-climbing clubs or caving clubs that can help you get started (caving clubs never charge for this).
A couple of books that cover all the basics: On Rope available at http://www.karstsports.com/81085.html. The definitive book on SRT (single-rope technique, American-style ropework). http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/pro...ils.cfm?PC=568 (I don't have this book, but it looks decent.) There's a basic level of competency that should be strived for and that's, of course, to be prepared for the things that can happen while you're on rope. Once you're comfortable on rope, take it upon yourself to learn to rescue someone stuck or unconscious on rope, learn to self-rescue (such as getting unstuck if an article of clothing gets sucked into your rappel device), learn how to pass intermediate anchors, learn how to climb back up a rope (with gear, I mean) so that you can reverse direction if you need to, and learn how to rig a basic haul system. It sounds like a lot, but things can take an unexpected turn at any time, and sometimes there's very little time to react, so one has to know one's skills thoroughly. I take it all very seriously. I once gently told a guy who joined us on a caving trip that he had his system set up dangerously and why (seriously, at one point I nearly climbed up to rescue him off the rope!). Everyone else on the trip was whispering about it, but no one wanted to be the one to say something about it. When I tried to discuss it with him, he got angry and blew me off. Three weeks later, he and his best friend went out alone, and he rigged his best friend up the same way. They both got in trouble on rope. His friend died on rope. Stuck, exhausted, and hypothermic, he ultimately lost consciousness and died when the weight of his unconscious body hanging in the sit harness interfered with his blood flow. The guy I'd tried to talk into fixing his system nearly died, too. He had gotten into the same trouble and become so exhausted and hypothermic that he collapsed on the ground when he got off rope and was too out of it to even try to help his friend. Another time we told a guy that his equipment was dangerous and that he shouldn't attach his rappel rack with a 'biner. Two months later, the 'biner unscrewed itself on a rappel and managed to slide around enough that his rappel device fell out of it, and he fell 80 feet to his death. My own sister nearly died climbing on rope when she got stuck under an undercut lip in the breakover of a waterfall. She was new to caving and had no business being in that particular cave, but her boyfriend talked her into it. The girl had no body fat, and she quickly exhausted herself trying to get out of her predicament. She was getting hypothermic and decided she just needed to rest. Once she got cold, she couldn't make herself keep trying. She said that just as she was slipping into unconsciousness, she heard my voice in her ear, just as if I were there, telling her very clearly and loudly exactly what I'd repeated ad nauseum while teaching her about ropework in waterfalls: "NEVER REST! If you rest, you'll DIE!" At that point, she remembered what I'd taught her about undercut ledges and saved herself (though I very nearly killed her BF when I found out where he'd taken her and what had happened). |
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mostly kg it is knowing how to use stuff and its not something anybody can teach you on the internet you can descend safely with both the setups
in this picture and i think it is something that everybody should have in there bob prefrably the figure 8 and steel carabiner on the right but the chain link will also do the job but you have no promises of strength on anything not made for climbing so you take your chances if you want to play with improvised climbing gear.you can also descend using a body belay this can be very painfull just on a steep slope. http://www.damoc.com/desc.JPG here is an improvised rope harness http://www.damoc.com/data/ropeclimb/ropehar.html you will also want as much 8 or 9 mm static rope as you can fit in your bob 50 meters would be nice it has many other uses for an emergency but you shouldnt use for abseiling if you have used for a tow rope or winch line also prussick line with your bob |
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:adore: Mankind envies your husband |
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:dontknow: practice on the tree in the backyard? |
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climbing rope is designed to stretch to absorb the shock of a fall in rock climbing its not quite as strong as static line and not as abrasion resistant and if you do actually want to pull somthing out of a bog or winch something a static line is a better choice and a more likely use. static line is still good for top rope climbing where you do not generate the same fall forces that you would in lead climbing |
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Nice to see all this professional/expert Mountaineering stuff posted but your approach as illustrated in your weblink is what most of us want to see from a Survival Prep perspective. Let's start with the basic three: static rope, figure eight, and carabiner for our BOB. What do we buy? |
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Hi Book!
Good thread. I'd say in a SHTF scenario, what you'll need more than a figure 8 or a rope will be SKILLS. Without them, you could have a fat big-wall rack and still no idea what to do with it. With skills you will always know what you need, how to get it and how to use it. For rappelling, the only indispensable piece of gear is the rope. There are ways to rappel without a harness or biner (carabiner), but they are slow and uncomfortable. Of course, a figure 8, a couple of biners and a harness are all standard sport climbing equipment. But in a survival situation you'll need to know how to anchor your rope, climb back up it, rescue someone, etc. Most often, when a survival situation arises that requires doing any of this, you'll find that you don't have all the gear you'd like for that exact situation, so you need to know what to do. How do you rappel if you don't have a harness, or a biner? How do you climb up a rope if you don't have a Gibbs, or jumar? Know your knots. Knots can substitute biners and figure 8s (Munter Hitch) if you know how to use them, and prusik knots can be used as ascenders. In a survival situation, even your shoelace can be used to tie a prusik. The one thing you don't want to do is find yourself hanging from a rope without any options and trying to remember how to do something that can save your life. Practice, practice, practice. On flat ground if you need to, then a slope, then a small wall, then a cliff. If you want to be serious about it, you need to practice seriously. Get dressed in your "mountaineering" gear, grab your rope, cords and webbing and run a cold shower. Sit in it with the lights off until you start shivering, then start tying and untying all the knots you think you know. Heck, if you don't freak out too much the first time your life is on the line and get comfortable enough with the "abseiling" part, maybe you'll be ready to try the best part- climbing up the rock while trailing your rope. That's where the ral fun is! Also, potentially useful in many situations. (Didn't you post some of those Parkour videos a while back?) |
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towrope or winch line and that is what i am more likely to use it for wtshtf. |
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Anyway, do as you please. |
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but climbing and abseiling. my rope in my bob is my rope its cared for and used as it MIGHT need to be. i hope never to use it to tow or winch and then also for safety but if it comes to that post tshtf it will be my personal judgment call and one i feel pretty confident to make. |
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One rope in your BOB for wtshtf. For everything you do. One. Rope. One rope. |
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